Vancouver dining

Lupo Restaurant and Vinoteca
869 Hamilton Street,
Vancouver. BC
Ph: (604) 569-2535 or Reserve Online

I have now enjoyed two excellent meals at the revamped Lupo Restaurant and this review reports on both of them.

The last time I had dined at that location was before there was a change in ownership last July. Julio Gonzalez Perini who ran Villa Del Lupo in the Heritage house on Hamilton Street for many years, sold it in 2005.   I had a  nice dinner at  Villa del Lupo more than a year ago, before Perini bought back the space.  At that time the food was good though not outstanding and we had some amusing moments as you can read in my review of that  visit.

Since then this  lovely building  has been reborn as Lupo Restaurant and Vinoteca once again under the ownership of Executive Chef  Perini, together with Michael Mameli, wine director and co-owner. The Chef de Cuisine is Takeo Hiro and Jeff Salzauler is pastry and dessert chef. The intent of the new management was to carve a niche, so to speak, as a neighbourhood restaurant featuring exellent food at reasonable prices. It appears that they have succeeded.

In March, for our pre-show dinner before heading to The Playhouse to see The Love List, we decided to visit the new incarnation of  Lupo Restaurant. Although when we arrived, early as usual, there were only a few tables occupied, the place filled up really quickly. The service was attentive and timely.  

We enjoyed the pre-show menu served from 5 to 6 pm which offered a choice of 4 starters, 4 entrees and a dessert . You could chose to have a two or three course meal which I really appreciated as I often find that three courses are just too much.   My companion at that meal loved the lentil and sausage soup while I enjoyed a beautifully presented carpaccio.  Then I had a sinfully tender lamb version of osso bucco while he had the beef short  ribs. 

The service was impeccable, the food excellent and we vowed we would come back soon.

My second visit was last week just before going to see Vancouver Opera's wonderful production of The Marriage of Figaro at  The Queen Elizabeth Theatre.

William Tell Restaurant
765 Beatty Street,
Vancouver BC
PH: (604) 688-3504 or Reserve Online

There is a plethora of excellent restaurants within a short walk of the Vancouver civic  theatres complex (Queen Elizabeth Theatre, Vancouver Playhouse and The Orpheum) and of The Centre for Performing Arts. We chose  the William Tell Restaurant for an early  dinner before heading off to see Vancouver Opera's "Nixon in China."

Shanghai River Restaurant
#110-7831 Westminster Highway,
Richmond, BC
Ph: (604) 233-8885

With its large diverse Chinese community, Vancouver celebrates Chinese New Year in style. This year a group of us, 12 in all, took the Canada Line out to Richmond, for a Chinese New Year banquet at the Shanghai River Restaurant. Arranged by Susan, whose petite frame belies her formidable social organizational skills, the evening promised to be a veritable feast and it was.

As we were led to our table which seated 12 quite comfortably, we passed by the pastry area where the dumplings and noodles are freshly made. We sipped on our hot tea while Susan and Nick decided what needed to be added to the standard  banquet menu for 10 people. The rest of us debated whether to order beer or wine. Five of us settled on a bottle of Mission Hill white wine of unknown varietal. The menu did not specify. We guessed it was a Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris but we got so involved with the various dishes that we forgot to ask them to bring back the bottle so we could check. The others ordered beers.

We were first served a cold platter with tofu, jellyfish, smoked white fish, chicken and bamboo shoots.

Next came a speciality of the house, dumplings filled with meat and broth, that were quite delicious. I also liked the pan fried tiger prawns but found the assorted seafood dish (scallops, squid and fish) very bland.

Maenam Thai Restaurant
1938 West 4th Avenue
Vancouver.
Ph: (604) 730-5579 or Reserve Online

The last time I visited this location  at its previous incarnation as Gastropod I enjoyed an excellent meal. Since chef Angus An renamed  it Maenam and changed the focus to Thai specialities  in May last year, I have not had an opportunity to revisit. But heading off to the Jericho Arts Centre to see The Vic, we decided to test our taste buds against some spicy Thai dishes.

We were seated at a nicely private table adjacent to the bar area, and Janice, our efficient server promptly brought water and took our wine order.  I could not resist a glass of Wild Goose Autumn Gold - an exquisite blend of Gewurtztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Blanc that I enjoyed (and brought home several bottles) during my "Taste of the South Okanagan" visit to the Wild Goose Winery in the Fall, 2008.  My companion ordered a Chilean Pinot Noir which seemed to go down equally smoothly.

Cru Restaurant
1459 West Broadway
Vancouver, BC V6H 1H6
Ph: 604-677-4111 or Reserve Online

Prior to heading off to the Stanley Theatre to see Mrs. Dexter & her Daily my theatre buddy and I opted to have dinner at Cru. Surprisingly I have not been there before although it is really convenient for pre-show dining if you are going to the Stanley Theatre. And even though it is a slightly longer walk, it is also quite convenient if you are going to the Pacific Theatre at 12th and Hemlock.

We were seated in a comfortable booth and given the prix fixe menu. At 42 dollars for 3 courses I thought it was a little pricey, until I tasted the food. I started with the Cellar Door Caesar salad which is absolutely the best Caesar salad I have ever had. The dressing covered with a generous amount of asiago cheese is layered over grilled Romaine lettuce and the croutons are soaked in garlic butter. I shudder to think of the calorie count but it was absolutely sinfully delicious.

Bay Moorings Restaurant
6330 Bay Street,
Horseshoe Bay
Ph: 604-921-8184

While waiting for our ferry sailing from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo, we stopped off at Bay Moorings Restaurant for a light supper.  We left our luggage in the conveniently located rack near the front desk - I guess they do a roaring business with travellers waiting for ferry sailings.

Our table on the patio overlooking the harbour was shaded and pleasant, despite the warm weather. The servers were cheerful and efficient.

We both opted for the cod  with fries and a Greek salad. The cod came in a crispy batter which was thin and delicious, and was accompanied by tartare sauce. The fries were also great - it was hard to stick to my resolution to leave a few on the plate.

My impression was that this would be a good restaurant for a family meal and I would definitely consider stopping off for another meal before boarding the ferrry next  time 

When the sun shines in Vancouver, there is little that can beat a leisurely lunch on a patio, looking out over sparkling water. This past week I took the opportunity to lunch with friends on two restaurant patios in Yaletown, on the north side of False Creek.


Provence Marinaside
1177 Marinaside Crescent Vancouver.
Ph: 604-681-4144

The first lunch was at Provence Marinaside, on Marinaside Crescent opposite - strangely enough- a marina.  It has been a while since I last dined at this restaurant, and all previous occasions, lunch or dinner have somehow been inside. But here I was, shaded from direct sunlight but feeling its warmth in the air, sipping on a glass of rosé, while I waited for my friend to join me.

There were many items on the menu that appealed, but I decided to try the seared sablefish, served with grapefruit vinaigrette, warm vegetable salad, fresh basil and fingerling potatoes. It was quite delicious. My companion's lunch was equally pleasing. I  have found the food at Provence Marinaside to be consistently good and the prices reasonable. 

The Smoking Dog Bistro
1889 West 1st Avenue
Vancouver, BC
Ph: 604-732-8811

The Bard-on-the-Beach 2009 season has officially begun and we were off to Vanier Park to see Othello. Surfing around for restaurants close by I thought that this Bistro at 1st and Cypress would be a pleasant walk away from the Bard location. Although Kitsilano's neighbourhood Smoking Dog French bistro has been here "forever" as I learned while my dining companion regaled me with its history,  this was my first time trying it out.

Our reservation was for 5:30 - early for dinner in Vancouver, as we approached the restaurant, I noticed that many of the outside tables along 1st Street were already occupied. A good sign. We were shown to the patio on the Cypress side of the Bistro and were able to get a table that was shaded from direct sunlight. Amazingly the air was still balmy. I remember the Bard opening of Twelfth Night on the same date in June last year - it was freezing cold and even with a thick jacket and a blanket I was chilled to the bone. But I thought that maybe tonight we would not even need a jacket.

Within minutes of being seated, we were chatting to our friendly waiter, whose accent declared his origin to be in France; and I was sipping a glass of a delicious white wine blend perfect for a warm spring evening.

I have been a fan of German Rieslings for years. Raised eyebrows, quizzical or even somewhat patronising looks and comments about sophisticated palates and  full bodied red wines would  wash over me. I just smiled to myself as I picked up my Rhine or Mosel  Riesling at the BC Liquor Store for a very reasonable price, and prayed to Dionysus and Bacchus (depending on whether I felt more Greek or Roman that day) that these wines would not become too "fashionable."

"Let them drink Chardonnay", I thought. And they did. And I bought my favorite Rieslings for a mere pittance.

Of course prices of the German Rieslings increased over time as with  other wines but the idea that a preference for white wine indicates a lesser palate or  ignorance of the "French paradox",  still lingers in some  circles. Yes I know  about resveratrol and its possible health benefits but I figure I can get that anyway enough just by eating red grapes, skin and all.  And fulfil  a fruit requirement of the Canada Food Guide at the same time!  So I continue to indulge in my preference for white wines and choose a Riesling or Gewürtztraminer over  the ubiquitous Chardonnay every time.