travel writing

A grey rainy day in LiverpoolOf the 7 ports we visit on this cruise around the British Isles,  Liverpool has never been on my "must-see" short list.  In Ireland I was excited to visit Dublin because  of my interest in its great literary history. In Scotland, I am looking forward to going back to Edinburgh partly for sentimental reasons - a wonderful visit there with my then-fiance more than 40 years ago; and also because of the spectacular city-scape with Edinburgh Castle looming over the town. Glasgow holds family interest because that's where one of my grandmothers came from.   But Liverpool to me evoked images of grey buildings under grey skies, and apart from the fact that it was the birthplace of the Beatles, I knew very little about it.

A grey day on the Liffey River in DublinDublin is another first time port of call for the Queen Victoria. The ship travelled east to the St. Georges channel and then followed the Irish coast northwards. We docked shortly after 8 am at Ocean Pier in Dublin.

I have two nieces that live in and nearby Dublin and was hoping to meet up with them, but communications got confused and i did not make arrangements to see them. So after a breakfast in our cabin - including the delicious blueberry muffin - Karen and I met up with a group to explore the city ourselves. This time our group consisted of Raoul, Nancy, me, Bill C, Gordy and Karen D.

Gordy, Bill, Raoul and Nancy on the busAfter we disembarked, we decided to catch a bus into Dublin and see what to do from there. Most of us wanted to walk around the city. Nancy wanted to take a trip out to a village with lovely gardens.

Still smiling near voyage end - Art, Keith, Ed, JoeWhen I was considering booking for the cruise around the British Isles, one of the things that tipped my decision towards going was the fact that the Cunard liners are one of the few among cruise lines that have a regular Dance Host program.  This means that if you are travelling without a dance partner, you can still get an opportunity to enjoy some ballroom dancing on the excellent Cunard ballroom floors.

I  first learned about the dance hosts on the  Labour Weekend Getaway Ballroom Dance Cruise that I took on the Queen Mary last fall. I had noticed several gentlemen impeccably dressed in dark blazers, and wearing badges identifying them as hosts on the ship but I was not sure what their jobs actually were.  During the four evenings of the cruise I had the opportunity to dance with three of them and found them  to be really good social dancers and interesting to talk to.

Gordy asleep on the floor on the ferryWhile Karen got ready for dinner, I heard the start of the missed sailing story from her perspective, as well as the key saga. When Karen first boarded she was given a key to another cabin - that was number one. Then when the confusion about who was rooming with whom was sorted out she got a key to our cabin. However it did not open the door so  she went to the Purser and had the key reactivated. We joked about a keycard jinx on our cabin.  Little did we know.

Later when Karen was getting ready to go ashore in Cherbourg her key was missing.  (I later found it on the floor under the bed between the centre bedside table and her suitcase).

Cobh, Blarney, Kinsale and returnThe voyage around the British isles is a new itinerary for the Queen Victoria and several of the destinations are maiden ports of call for this ship.  Today we were stopping at  the seaport of Cobh, one of the Republic of Ireland's major transatlantic seaports.  Cobh is  the place where the survivors and victims of the 1915 Lusitania sinking were brought ashore; commemorated by a Lusitania Peace memorial in Casement Square.

From a historical interest perspective Cobh is like a reverse Ellis Island in that it was the port from which 2.5 million Irish emigrants left for North America between 1848 and 1950. Cobh Heritage Centre is a genealogical resource with a collection of old photos and letters, as well as passenger lists.

Honey, Wendy and Magdalena looking stunning in black and whiteThe Queens Room was glittering with guests in formal wear. The men looked elegant in black or white tuxedos and there was a array of beautiful dresses everywhere. The champagne and wine fueled an animated level of conversation.

Some of our group were gathered together chatting on the dance floor, when a visibly upset Bill, one of our dance hosts, joined the group. The mystery of the missing Karen began to unfold. Here is the story from Bill's perspective.

Apparently after a relaxed and enjoyable day sight-seeing,  Bill, Karen and Gordy, another of Wendy's four dance hosts had returned to the port area. There had been an earlier discussion about the time that the ship was sailing  and somehow they had the idea that they had to be on board for a sailing at 6. They were making their way leisurely back to the ship when Bill went to look at something in one of the shops, and said he would catch up to them. Bill found his way back to the ship and at the check point, realized that he had Karen's Cunard card with him.  At that point he realized they had not boarded the ship and alerted the ship's crew.

the pool deck - most guests went ashoreSince the first port of call for the Queen Victoria was Cherbourg in France, the clocks were set forward an hour at midnight on Thursday. When I woke around 7 am I was feeling quite weary. Five nights of less than 6 hours sleep does have a compounding effect.

the central foyerFor this cruise I had not booked any of the official excursions, having learned from previous  trips that it can be more fun just going ashore with a group and  walking around or getting a taxi to drive to selected spots. The downside of not booking an excursion is that it makes it a lot easier to opt out of going anywhere.

I had debated with myself whether to join one of the groups from our dance crowd, but in the end I decided that Cherbourg had no special appeal for me and I really needed to use the time to catch up on housekeeping details like a week's laundry, and finding my way around the ship.

Embarkation dinner menuThe first thing that struck me on walking into the welcome cocktail party, was that apart from Wendy, how many of the other dancers I knew from my previous cruises with Dancers At Sea.  From my first West coast Wine Tasting and Dance Cruise, there was Raoul, one of the hosts, and guests Nancy, Dean, Bruce, Dr. Bill, Ginny and Bill. On the Labour Weekend Getaway Dance Cruise I met Bill C, one of the dance hosts.

The Queen Victoria's cruise itinerary around the British isles from the Cunard site Continuing on from my visit to London 2010: For  Restaurants, Theatre and Shows, the adventure at sea begins.

Courtesy of Cunard, the map shows the clockwise route for the cruise round the British Isles from Southampton, with 10 nights at sea. First we cross the English Channel to visit Cherbourg, then travel through the Celtic and Irish Seas, stopping at Cobh, Dublin, Liverpool and Belfast; then on to to Glasgow.  With a full day at sea we sail through the North Sea round the Northern tip of Britain to Edinburgh, followed by another full day at sea before reaching Southampton again.

Coming from London, I had booked a transfer to Southampton with Cunard. Re-routing to avoid congestion from an accident, and an additional delay at a rest-stop, significantly increased the stated journey time.

The bus from Victoria Coach Station pulled into the Ocean Cruise Terminal at Southampton two hours late around 3:30.  With only 45 minutes left for check-in, most passengers were already on board. It took only a few minutes for me to have my ticket and passport checked, register a credit card for on-board purchases, and get my key card for the cabin.


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